Notes from the six trips
Specific, sensory notes from the routes we've built, and honest previews of what we're writing next.
Field notes
Not testimonials, not stock photography standing in for someone else's memory. These are the same specific details you'll find on the trip pages themselves.
South IndiaFourteen towers covered in thousands of painted deities, one of the most architecturally overwhelming structures on earth. The evening puja, with its deep chanting and oil lamps echoing through granite corridors, deserves a full evening.
More on the South India trip
North IndiaThe 4am first prayers at the Golden Temple are not a tourist experience. Two different revelations, both worth doing. Walk the marble parikrama in the cool mist while volunteers serve warm karah prasad.
More on the North India trip
West IndiaCamel safari into the Thar Desert and one night under the stars at a camp near the Sam sand dunes. The Milky Way is visible in a way it simply is not from Britain.
More on the West India trip
East IndiaThe city waking up underneath the steel truss on the Hooghly River. Flower markets, tens of thousands of early workers, and mist under the bridge. This is the correct hour to see it.
More on the East India tripIn progress
Longer pieces on the practical questions that come up most: permits, paperwork, timing, and the details that don't fit neatly on a trip page. None of these are published yet, marked honestly rather than dressed up as available.
A plain-language breakdown for British Indians who've never had to think about this before.
What changed in January 2026, what it means for foreign passport holders, and how much lead time to actually budget.
On chicory, brass tumblers, and why hotel breakfast coffee never quite gets it right.
Why the corridor has been closed since May 2025, and what the Amritsar extension looks like without it.
When 45°C is real, when it's survivable, and when the desert is genuinely at its best.
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